The (Mostly) Public Bus Guide to Hiking Crete’s Gouverneto and Katholiko Monasteries

Hello, hikers–yes, of course you should do the famous Samaria Gorge hike, but find time in your visit to Crete for this amazing hike–two monasteries and a fabulous sea cove on the peninsula northeast of the city of Chania.

Worth the sweaty hike to find these hidden treasures.

It’s rugged and the scenery is outstanding. You won’t have it to yourself, but you’ll see far fewer fellow hikers than on the Samaria Gorge. Bring along your swimsuit and take a dip in a perfect little cove of clear blue-green water, just the right temperature in the middle of a sunny, sweaty hike in early November.

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The Public Bus Guide to Hiking the Samaria Gorge

If hiking is something you enjoy, you’ll want to hike the Samaria Gorge–a 16km, unique hiking experience on Crete. Any online searching for things to do on Crete will quickly uncover this scenic, iconic gorge–it’s the second most visited site on Crete (after the Palace of Knossos). Justin and I hiked it on a beautiful October day and we highly recommend it to you.

It’s multi-step, all-day excursion. The journey forms a triangle: travel south from Chania to the gorge then hike to the sea, take ferry east along the coast, then travel north back to Chania. You may be led to believe, as I was, that it’s difficult to get there. Site after site tried to steer me to guided tours, rental cars, and even taxis. But you know what will work equally well but will cost a great deal less? 

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What Happiness Sounds Like (when it doesn’t take too much to make you happy)

We wanted someplace quiet on a recent weekend, so we headed for Thomas, West Virginia, a former coal-mining community that’s now finding a second life as a low-key retreat in the mountains.

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Polly, Put the Kettle On (Or What the British Taught Me about a Cup of Tea)


“Each day is a little life: every waking and rising a little birth, every fresh morning a little youth, every going to rest and sleep a little death.”

arthur Schopenhauer

My husband’s great-grandmother’s tea cup and saucer.

Okay, you put the kettle on, and I’ll talk about tea.

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The no-tour, DIY Itinerary for Hadrian’s Wall

[For why walking Hadrian’s Wall is a great idea, and why planning it yourself is an even better idea, read my post here.]

Truly, planning this inn-to-inn through-hike yourself is very doable and adds immeasurably to the pleasure of your trip. Here’s our full itinerary to get you started.

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Three Tips to Love Your Hadrian’s Wall Walk, even if Things Go Wrong

(Read our DIY Hadrian’s Wall Itinerary here. Planning our itinerary ourselves was 100% worthwhile.)

Are you considering this walk? You’re right–it’s a great one. We just returned from Hadrian’s Wall, and here’s what went wrong (and right!), our top tips for YOUR trip, and our itinerary to get your planning started.

The famous Sycamore Gap as seen from the west. [Update: The tree, tragically, is no longer there. But the sweeping views, the great people, the history…there are still so many reasons to go. ]
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